The washing machine spins. It sounds a bit like a jet engine.
For a reason I can't remember I'm using Saturdays to look back on my holiday in Sorrento three years ago. I kept a diary then, and I thought it would be fun to pick up that little A5 red notebook and write out here, what I wrote there and then in the sunny Italian summer of 2013.
I appreciate that the result is a little worse than someone else's holiday snaps. So far I've left a phone charger in the Travelodge, flown to Naples, chilled out in the (possibly mafia-owned) hotel, and been ignored by Germans. You don't have to read what happened next of course, any more than I would make you sit through my holiday slideshow or a detailed description of walking uphill with sunburnt ankles. However, in this episode I go on about romance, and we get some rain...
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September 9th, 2013
It's pretty easy to fall in love with Italy. I'm at the marina where a long walk has led me down another steep hill. I'm not quite ready to face climbing a steep hill so I'm chilling out with a cup of tea and a doughnut of the cioccolato persuasion.
Sorrento is perfectly Italian. It bustles with life, energy and vigour. There are shady side-streets lined with coloured walls of crumbling plaster, there are palm trees looming into the summer sky over picturesque squares of pigeons, park benches and pensioners. There are crazy taxis zipping along the Corso Italia, honking and gesticulating at pedestrians and there are expensive shops alongside hotels, pizzerias (I know, it should be pizzerie), bars, and stalls selling junk and Catholic paintings.
It has everything, this place: the blue sparkling bay, stretching lazily into the distance, the mad parking and the surprisingly romantic graffiti.
VOGLIO IL TUO CUORE MARIA G
IO TI AMO*
In England, I thought, graffiti is a little more vulgar. If you are going to deface somebody's property, break the law and make a bold gesture, much better to do it in a way that will make Maria G swoon with romance.
I'd like the romantic side of me to wake up a little, as it goes. I feel like it's such a part of me, I cannot allow the mistakes of the past to silence it any longer. When I was in Perugia, seventeen and full of some kind of unbelievable confidence, I loved a girl back home but there was no way I could tell her, and the thought of admitting it was terrifying. I was young, and I had no way of working it out. I wish I had known too, how embarrassingly that story would end a year later. Over the years, a recurring cycle of stories has led to a much older, much more careworn heart which is in need of some waking up, and I'm realising it in this most romantic of countries.
Perhaps it's a sign of something around the corner. Nothing happens for no reason, right?
4:15. Out in the sun, poolside again. I have very few cares or worries at the moment. I'm a little sunburned on my right ankle and the back of my neck but I am nonetheless, alright.
On the way back up the steps from the marina, I realised with a little smile that nobody within a thousand miles knows who I am. I don't know why that should appeal to me. Stress, difficulty, argument, trouble and disappointment all come through people - and here, out of everybody's grasp, I am free.
There are thick, black clouds rolling over the headland. Soon the sun will be eclipsed. I suspect before my usual 5:15 in-time, the air will be a little cooler. I'm going to pack up my stuff.
4:45. I came up to my room (201) and sat on the balcony. Slowly, silently, the immense black cloud rolled over Sorrento. I watched it, sitting out in the hot air. Over the trees, the cloud was thunderous, as though it was angry at the Mediterranean, gathering darkly at its shoreline, ready to strike. I wondered, and hoped, that the sky would start flashing and growling, or whether a single bolt of blinding light would loudly split the sky into two pieces.
It's no thunderstorm though, just a heavy cloud, pendulent with rain. Dark splodges appeared on my shirt and started pockmarking the cushion on the bench. Before too long, it was too wet to stay outdoors so I rushed in, sat on the bed with the door wide open and started writing.
It's stopped now. Just a shower I suppose, but the sun is still hidden behind a wall of grey cloud. There will be no sunset to see tonight.
Amazingly, the air is so warm, the terracotta tiles are already starting to dry. If English weather were like this, we'd be people of a different temperament.
9:15. I feel like I've been here forever. I've even fallen into routines: a bottle of water out on the terrace after the evening meal, a tea in the bar after that, trying to look cool and mysterious.
It seems people are getting to know each other. That's good for humanity, but a little depressing for shy loners like me. There's only one conclusion: I must exude a kind of leave-me-alone solitude. Or perhaps that is the default aura for people who sit in bars on their own, writing and drinking tea.
Well, I seem to be returning to my theme then - here on my own, yada yada yada. What a bore. This is definitely not the way to awaken poetry in my soul. I'm going to go out and sit on the terrace and enjoy the evening.
*Translation: I want your heart, Maria G. I love you. Now that's some romantic graffiti right there.